31 July - Ketchikan

Moored at Bar Harbor South.  Signed up for 3 months moorage and got tickets for the boys to fly to Juneau on the afternoon flight.  I called up Dave Owings and he bought me lunch (delicicous), and afterwards he gave the boys a lift to the airport ferry.  I spent the rest of the day closing up the boat, closing seacocks, cleaning, airing the boat out.

30 July - Across Dixon Entrance

Got up at 4:30am to get ready to go.  Woke the boys up around 5:00am, after a cup of coffee, and we were underway by 6:00am, wending our way through Venn Passage.  Venn Passage is a twisting channel shortcut between Prince Rupert and Dixon Entrance.  There were a lot of commercial and sportfishing boats headed out at the same time.  The commercial boats were polite and slowed down when passing us, but many sportfish charter boat operators are complete jerks, passing us close by at high speed in shallow water, creating large waves and rolling the boat.
Dixon Entrance was smooth, with only a small swell and a few waves from the fishing boats.  The boys went back to sleep and Otto and I sailed the boat.  About mid-day a breeze came  up from the east and I raised the sails, motorsailing at 6 knots.
We arrived at Ketchikan about 8:30pm, causing a problem for customs.  Turns out that, since Congress can't get its act together enough to pass a budget, there's no overtime budget for U.S. Customs.  The poor customs officer probably spent more time on the phone getting permission for an evening inspection than he spent actually inspecting the boat.
Since we didn't know where we would be mooring, we didn't call ahead to clear U. S. Customs before leaving Prince Rupert.  Not that it would have helped, because we made the decision late the evening before, after office hours, and left early, before office hours.  I tried hailing customs on VHF 16 once we were in U. S. waters, but got no answer, so waited until we were within cell phone range of Ketchikan and called them on the phone, just before 5:00 pm.  Their first response was to have us go back to Foggy Bay and anchor for the night.  I said no, claiming prudent seamanship, since it would have meant backtracking 20 miles and anchoring in the dark.  Several phone calls later, he met us at the dock and helped us tied up. 
After coming aboard, he asked a couple questions (booze? - yes, ship's stores, fresh fruit or potted plants? - no), looked around the small cabin, and left.  Never even asked for passports or identification.

29 July - Prince Rupert

Moored at the Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club.  Spent the day walking around Prince Rupert.  Bought a new handheld VHF radio at Sea Sport Outboard Marina and the boys did laundry.

28 July - Port Edward

Still in Port Edward.  Dylan, with Harbour Machining, came by in the afternoon with a new fuel pump and fittings.  New pump installed and everything back to normal by 5:00pm and we headed around the corner to Prince Rupert.  Adrian got on the radio and got us a berth at the Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club. He had fun twiddling and operating the old VHF base station (my handheld VHF radio died about the same time as the engine).

27 July - Jury-rigged Fuel System

We jury-rigged a gravity-feed fuel system for the engine, consisting of a 5 gallon jerry can in the cockpit with the fuel line from an outboard motor (with squeeze bulb hand pump for priming) plumbed into the fuel line on the engine.  It works.
Left Hunt Inlet about 11:00 am and arrived in Porpoise Harbour, Port Edward, about 10 miles away, around 2:00 pm.  Port Edward is the industrial suburb of Prince Rupert, with freight trains going by the marina every couple hours, a fish packing plant next door, and the horizon dominated by grain elevators, coal piles, and what appears to be a cement factory.

26 July - Broke Down in Hunt Inlet

The weather forecast wasn't that good, and our anchorage wasn't exactly idyllic, so decided to run into Prince Rupert and tie up at a marina to do laundry, showers, email, etc.  It seemed like a good plan, but:
- The handheld VHF radio, the only one onboard that gets weather forecasts, decided to die.  I thought maybe the battery was dead, but tried the backup battery and still no luck.  So I'll buy another radio in Prince Rupert before venturing out into Dixon Entrance.
- Started the engine.  It ran fine for about 10 minutes, then completely died, in solidarity with the radio no doubt. Checked the normal things, then tried again. Still no luck.
So we flagged down a passing skiff, hoping to use a nearby phone to call for a tow. Mike, the guy in the skiff, happened to have the same engine as a generator for his cabin. He went and got his tools and we tore into the engine.
Three hours later we found the culprit. The fuel tank is about level with the engine, so when the fuel level goes down an auxiliary pump is needed to bring fuel up to the engine. That pump was toast, and was probably the cause for out earlier engine problems, because all the filters still looked clean, indicating the the fuel is fine. We rigged up temporary fuel tank in the cockpit that fed fuel by gravity
Into the engine.
By then it was too late and the weather was too crappy to leave the inlet with an open fuel tank sitting on deck, so spent the night in the inlet.

Two sleeping boys

25 July - Hunt Inlet

Rainy, crappy weather.  Got underway around 10:00 and slogged through the rest of Grenville Channel in rain and low clouds.  Coming out the north end, we decided to go and anchor in Hunt Inlet to the west instead of going into Port Edward, which looked like an industrial area.
Pounded into waves and swell in Chatham Sound for a couple hours before finding a lee and getting into Hunt Inlet.  Chart said there was a government dock to tie to partway up the inlet.  The chart lied in so many ways.  There were islands that weren't on the chart, the channel didn't match the chart, and I think I spotted the rotting remains of a dock were the chart said the government dock should be.  Ended up going through a very narrow cut into a small lagoon to anchor.
Weather forecast is for storm warnings in Dixon Entrance...

24 July - Making Miles

Underway early, trying to make up for lost time due to weather, etc.  I let the boys sleep in, weighing anchor about 6:30 and meandering out of Mary Cove.  Calm seas and a light breeze, just enough to raise the mainsail and motorsail a bit while I drank my coffee. Ended up catching the tides just right and made 6-7 knots good most of the day.  Anchored in Klewnuggit Inlet, about halfway up Grenville Channel, just after sunset.  95 miles.

Passing Butedale

Anchored in Klewnuggit Inlet

Klewnuggit Inlet

23 July - Haulout

Got boat hauled out this morning. Pressure-washed the hull and the boatyard is installing a new thru-hull for the overboard discharge from the head.  We should be back in the water this afternoon, then out of here.

23 July - Making up for lost time

The boat was hauled about 9:30, and we were back in the water shortly after lunch.  We immediately headed out, traveling about 40 miles and mooring in Mary Cove right around sunset.
Mary Cove is a little pocket cove a little north of Klemtu.  There's only enough room for one or two boats, but very pretty, with a little waterfall on one side.

Engine Fixed

One project completed. After a couple hours of mucking about with the fuel system the engine is running much better.  Now to get the thru hull installed. Boatyard says tomorrow morning for the haul out. Maybe we'll be out of here tomorrow afternoon.

22 July - A Long Day to Shearwater

After topping off fuel and supplies at Dawson's Landing, we headed out about 10:00.  We now have enough fuel to get to Ketchikan if we need it.
From Dawson's Landing we went through Schooner Pass, which was a nice easy channel.  Kyle got to steer the boat for a couple hours.  Once we got into Fitz Hugh Sound we connected up Otto the autopilot and sat back to enjoy the scenery.  Saw a few whales, a couple cruise ships, and a tug/barge headed north.
We got into Shearwater right at dusk, about 10:30.  65 miles today, about 12 hours of travel.

Shearwater Memorial - the place started as a RCAF seaplane base in World War II.

Shearwater Marina, with Asterix moored at the end of the pier.

19 July - Around Cape Caution

We got a bit of a late start leaving Allison Harbour, so we ended up getting into some big swells from the outgoing tide meeting the ocean.  We hugged the coastline, ducking behind islands to reduce the rolling of the boat.  Saw a Canadian Coast Guard boat taking a shortcut behind Egg Island, so we did same.
Since we didn't take on fuel in Port McNeill, I decided to take a detour to Dawson's Landing to get fuel and a few supplies we missed in Port McNeill.
We moored at Dawson's Landing a little after 9:00 in the evening.  We were greeted by a pod of porpoise on the way up River Inlet.  Adrian is in a hurry and we're behind schedule, so we've elected for a long day tomorrow to get to Shearwater.

Dawson's Landing

21 July - Shearwater

Just moored at Shearwater after a 12 hour run from Dawson's Landing. More later.

18 July - Allison Harbour

I'll add photos later - internet connection leaves something to be desired.
The weather finally got good, so we pumped out the holding tank and headed out of Port McNeill.  There was a line at the fuel dock, so left without topping off the fuel tank.
We got about an hour of sailing in before the rain showers came, and then the wind basically died.  We motored the rest of the way to Allison Harbour, on the mainland side.  The anchorage is about 2 miles up a narrow channel, very protected from the weather and a nice mud bottom to hold the anchor.  There were three boats anchored up for the night, including us, all sailboats.

Allison Harbour upon arrival.

The next morning.

The next day we weighed anchor and headed out around Cape Caution.

Adrian on watch in the rain.

Kyle on watch.

18 July - And We're Out Of Here

Big weather change overnight.  It's now overcast and winds are out of the south at 5-15 knots and the forecast is for more of the same.  We're out of here as soon as the harbourmasters office is open (I need to settle up the bill and get the key for the pump-out station).  I picked up another fuel jug so we'll get another 5 gallons of diesel before we head out.
Broke in the new galley stove last night, warming up a can of beef stew.  Adrian and Kyle declared that canned beef stew was only for emergency use, when everything else on the boat had been eaten.  Adrian renamed it "meef stew",  as in "maybe/mostly beef".  They enjoyed it so much that we went out to a restaurant for a second dinner later.
The SPOT beacon seems to be working now.  I reactivated it and cycled the unit off/on.  I just checked the SPOT link ("Where is Asterix") and it shows us in the correct spot.
No internet or cell phone for the next several days, probably not until we get to Shearwater, if then.

Some Port McNeill Photos

Asterix in Port McNeill

Port McNeill's claim to fame - the world's largest burl.

17 July - Still Waiting Weather

The winds actually got stronger last night.  We're on an outside berth, beam to the wind, so last night was a lot of rocking and rolling.  Still too windy this morning, not sure the engine would be strong enough to pull us off the dock.  We've got all four fenders deployed between us and the dock, and two are squashed flat from the wind blowing the boat against the dock.  If there is a lull in the wind I may try to get a better berthing, since I don't think we're leaving today.
Continued maintenance on the engine yesterday, changed engine oil and transmission fluid.  So the engine is all set, I think.  We're also fully stocked with food, so now all we need is good weather.

Playing Canasta

I've been spending time at the harbourmaster's office, picking their brains about routes and such.  The general consensus is that we should cut across the strait and follow the mainland up. So our route has changed slightly.  Next stop, once we get out of here, will be either Blunden or Allison Harbour, then up around Cape Caution and on up.

SPOT not working

Evidently the SPOT locater beacon isn't showing up. Working on it, maybe tomorrow.

Maybe Crossing Saturday?

From Environment Canada:
Tonight and Wednesday
Strong wind warning in effect.Wind northwest 15 to 25 knots becoming northwest 20 to 30 early Wednesday evening.

Extended Forecast

ThursdayWind northwest 20 to 30 knots.

FridayWind northwest 15 knots becoming southeast 5 to 15.

SaturdayWind southeast 5 to 15 knots becoming light.I don't see us going anywhere for another day...

 

15 July - Small Victories

Still in Port McNeill, with gale warnings and fog banks in Queen Charlotte Sound. Spent the day working on the boat. Changed out the fuel filter and added a biocide to the fuel tank, along with some injector cleaner. Engine runs much better now.  Still not as well as it should, but good enough for the trip.  Also fixed the broken turnbuckle and spliced a couple of dock lines.
On my way back to the boat with some parts, I saw Mike and Suzanne motoring Elan into the dock behind Asterix.  They've been following a weather window south from Juneau.

Mike & Suzanne on Elan

Fog Banks Back to Port McNeill

Some days require a "do-over".  After staying up until midnight playing Canasta (Adrian pulled ahead at the last minute to win), I woke up to the ferry's fog horn.  Everything was completely fogged in with visibility less than 1/4 mile.  I let the kids sleep in while I puttered on the boat and paid the harbour bills.
The fog started to clear about 1:00 in the afternoon, so we fired up the motor and headed out.  We dodged fog for a little bit, but the wind picked up so we broke out the mainsail.  We raised the mainsail and immediately broke a turn shackle on the mainsheet traveler.  Down came the mainsail and we motored the rest of the way to Port McNeill (yes, we're back to where we got on the ferry).  The wind kept picking up as we went, so it was blowing pretty good by the time we got to the marina.  Then the motor died while coming into the dock.  Fortunately we had enough way on to coast even with a berth and the wind pushed us into the dock
So now I'm in a bar with wifi, trying unsuccessfully to update the electronic charts for the chartplotter.  Evidently the web designers working for Navionics believe all their customers have big screens and don't need to scroll up and down to buy stuff.

Getting ready to go.

On the upside, we loaded a bunch of food onboard, with more to come, and the harbour has cheap showers.

14 July - Stuck in Port McNeil

Just talked to Adrian very briefly - they are stuck in Port McNeil for a few days because of a storm.

13 July - Vancouver

Kyle and Adrian playing a weird variant of chess at the Vancouver airport while waiting to change planes.

Playing Thorn

The plane to Port Hardy is fully booked and weight-limited, so instead of 50 lbs each for checked bags we're only allowed 35 lbs each.  My bag weighs 46 lbs, Adrian's weighs 48, Kyle's weighs 26.  So some redistribution was in order.  By putting heavy things in the carry-ons we got the checked bags down to 35, 34, and 33.5 lbs.  The carry-ons are all maxed out as well, but we meet the weight limit.

Kyle and Adrian playing bumper car with the luggage carts.

12 July - Seattle

An early morning start (6:00 am flight) dropped us in Seattle mid-morning.  Very warm and sunny, so first order of business was frozen yogurt. Then lunch and off to West Marine for boat parts. By mid-afternoon the boys are tired, so off to the hotel. Another early morning flight tomorrow.

No Port Hardy Stop

Originally the plan was to stop in Port Hardy to haul out the boat and buy provisions for the boat, but that has changed.  I talked with the Quarterdeck Marina yesterday.  Their travel-lift works fine, but they don't have any qualified lift operators so they've put the travel-lift in storage.  No haul-out facilities in Port Hardy anymore.
Plan B - haul out in Shearwater.  E-mail from Shearwater Resort and Marina said sure, no problem, you bringing the parts you need?  We can do that.  So now we'll make a short hop from Sointula to Port McNeill to provision, then sail for a couple days until we get to Shearwater for the haul out and install the through hull and three-way valve.
In the meantime, packing continues.

Travel Schedule

Slowly firming things up.  We have airline tickets to Port Hardy on 13 July, and should be in Sointula the same day.  Then bring the boat to Port Hardy for a haulout and provisioning.  If all goes well, we'll start off on the 15th.
So far, the tentative itinerary looks like this:

• Overnight in either Bull Harbor or Indian Cove awaiting favorable tides and weather to cross Queen Charlotte Sound.
• Next stop is likely Fury Cove, although may push on further up Fitzhugh Sound if conditions allow.
• We'll stop in Namu for water, fuel, and showers, then on to Shearwater, maybe eat in a restuarant, showers.
• Next stop will be in the vicinity of Klemtu.  Clothes Bay if we're going slow, Mary Cove or Bottleneck Cove if we're making good time.
• Depending upon conditions, we'll go up either Tolmie Channel or Finlayson Channel and Hekish Narrows, then up past Butedale.
• We'll break for a day in Bishop Bay at the hot springs.
• Probably stop in Hartley Bay for fuel and water.
• I doubt that we can make it through Grenville Channel in a day, so will probably stop in Lowe Inlet to wait for favorable tides.
• I was thinking of stopping in Oona River, but don't know what the depth is (probably too shallow), so will probably anchor near Lewis Island in Malacca Passage.
• We'll probably not stop in Prince Rupert, but will stay in Chatham Sound, stopping either at the Metlakatla government float or at Port Simpson / Lax Kw'alaams.
• Cross the east side of Dixon Entrance back into U.S. waters and anchor in Foggy Bay or Bullhead Cove.
• A couple days break in Ketchikan, then up Clarence Strait, stopping at either Myers Chuck or Coffman Cove.
• We'll anchor in St. John Harbor to wait for the tides to go through Wrangell Narrows and up to Petersburg.
• May stop in Portage Bay, then on to Hobart Bay and Entrance Island.
• Taku Harbor and Juneau.

Works out to around 700 miles of sailing.  With good weather, we should be in Juneau around 3 August.